The best known is Microban®, a trade name for a collection of anti-microbial products, which is showing up in everything from tile grout to pet beds and computer mouse pads. What is the best way to clean this piece? I like the way Murphy’s smells, but my husband (who is a carpenter and floor refinisher) says its terrible for the wood. This is not good because once graying starts, the only way to fix it is to sand away the old sealant and grayed wood until fresh wood is revealed, then stain and reseal. And, what use is a lifetime sealant if you have to remove it every few years to restain? This same water in the form of a plumbing, roof, or siding leak can, over time, re-dissolve and remove the borates from the lumber. A good sealant keeps water out of deck wood, and the absence of water inhibits the growth of mold and mildew.
Nonetheless, most composite manufacturers, while stopping short of recommending periodic coating, suggest that treating the deck every year or so with a “protective coating” to guard against stains, mold, and mildew would do no harm. In the past penetrating sealants lasted, with luck, for a full year. Keeping water out of wood is the job of sealants. Figure 7. A bead of silicone sealant will keep water out of the joint between the railing post and the framing. For decks, the usual sealant is a penetrating solution rather than a surface coating like paint. Most sealants contain small particles of pigment suspended in the solution (or that will be suspended once you stir it thoroughly to the manufacturer’s specifications — hint, hint.) These add color to the deck. If you have lost the instructions that came with your decking material, go to the manufacturer’s website or call its helpline to find out what “protective coating” is recommended.
One turned out to be a maybe, and the other three were nothing like their pictures. I used Minwax brand Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and, during application, it looks like water going on the piece. If this sounds like this “protective coating” might be a sealant, you’re right, it is. No one has yet developed a reliable long-term anti-UV coating. So, we pretty much stick with 5-year coatings and renew the coating before any graying occurs. We suspect that the new ACQ treated pine, if properly resealed every 5 years or so, is a lifetime product. Once the deck is properly sealed, it does not need to be resealed for a long time; but take the “lifetime” claim with a big grain of salt. Making this method a part of your routine deck maintenance will keep the wood stronger and better able to withstand heat and sun damage. Some of this discoloration is caused by the action of mold, mildew, and bacteria in the wood but most is caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Of course this means more wood (up to 20%-30% more), so it is often more expensive than a run of the mill privacy fence. I would get more advice.
I get it – boring! This will prep the surface to absorb the oil. Prevention: Scuff-sand the surface with 50- to 80-grit sandpaper to remove the degraded layer. Remove The Pressed Sheets From The Press After at least 30 minutes have passed, I remove sheets from the press and lay the paper out to dry. We don’t think these are strictly necessary in a good sealant that performs its basic function of keeping water out. Consequently, while we are pretty sure that lifetime sealants do indeed protect a deck from water penetration for a long, long time, we see fading and graying after 5 years. Every spring the deck has to be sealed again. None of the anti-microbial agents lasts forever but can be renewed each time you reseal your deck. This keeps the deck looking new(ish) for a very long time. Ultraviolet is the solar death ray that kills decks — causing deck wood to fade and turn gray. Composite manufacturers steadfastly refuse to call the sealing products they use “sealants” — because most advertise their products as never needing sealing.